Friday, 3rd September 2010.

Posted on Monday, 2nd August 2010 by Auw Jimmy

After completing the construction of my Duelund Interconnect 2.0 Rev2 here, I decided to do some short comparison. My friend has Duelund Interconnect 1.0 Rev1. I think this gonna be a nice comparison!

Direct to the stage, we have some equipment on hand, like floorstander 3-way speakers, CEC CD Player, Marantz CD4000 fully modified with tube output stage, Hybrid F4 power amplifier, Aikido 6N1P-6N6P powered with Duelund CAST Ag/RGN1054 Mesh Rectifier, and also #26 Pre-Amp powered with Jensen Paper Tube and AZ1 Mesh Rectifier.

Without any further ado, let’s go to review those cables.

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Posted on Sunday, 18th July 2010 by Auw Jimmy

I this world, there are lot of tubes, with different filament supply. In most of my tube rectification application, I stand with two choice of rectifier, the one with 5 Volt filament (most Octal and UX type) and the others with 4 Volt filament (RGN or AZ families).

The best way to use two type of rectifier with different filament voltage is to use dedicated switch to select the exact filament voltage. You can also use Resistor to drop the filament voltage (up to 1V drop and 1A), but this way is not recommended due to a lot of heat must be dissipated (also not too good in terms of sound quality to).

I just finish the switch installation this afternoon. Now I can choose to use 4 Volt or 5 Volt filamen voltage. You can see the picture below.

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Posted on Sunday, 16th May 2010 by Auw Jimmy

I plan to compare some capacitors from Jensen and one from Audio Note. The two from Jensen are Jensen Copper Foil Paper-in-Oil (Paper Tube) and Jensen Copper Foil Paper-in-Oil (Copper Tube). From Audio Note, I have Copper Foil Mylar-in-Oil (I believe this is Copper Tube also). We gonna have a serious battle later since those 3 caps are using different “recipe”. Both Jensen are Paper in Oil type, but with different enclosure. While the Audio Note has similarity with one of the Jensen with Copper Tube, but with Mylar instead of Paper. Audio Note claims the Mylar will provide better combination between sonic reproduction and the reliability.

Shall we prove the result? Later… We must wait after the burn-in session, probably in 100+ hours.

For the burn-in session, I sealed the Copper Tube caps with plastic. This is to prevent the oxidation of the copper tube (both Audio Note and Jensen Copper Tube oxides very fast in my environment due to high humidity, thanks to the purity of the material used also). I should prepare a transparent heatshrink for a good looking appearance, but no time to find one now. Perhaps you will ask why there are 2 pair of Jensen Paper Tube? One is my friend’s, to join the burn-in session before used on his system.

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Posted on Saturday, 3rd April 2010 by Auw Jimmy

Now it’s time to try the Duelund CAST Ag (CAST Silver) on my Aikido Preamp. You might be interested to read the installation process.

Short words, here is the final installation photo. For the break-in purpose, I don’t use expensive configuration. Usually the main source is my old iPod Photo, connected with old hi-fi amplifier, then my DIY speaker. Few hours break-in session should be enough for initial impression. Although serious listening evaluation must be done at least after 100 hours of break-in period.

Some brief information of my Aikido Preamp, if you are not yet familiar with it:

  • DIY Main Transformer, Z11 core/38 size with Germany/Australia copper wire (330V-CT-330V/100mA, 0-4-5V /5A, 3.2V-CT-3.2V/5A, 0-90V/50mA)
  • Russian 5U4, 5U4G-B, or RGN 1054 Rectifier (available via Octal->B4 DIY converter)
  • Choke Input with 3 Chokes total, no Resistor in Power Supply line, except Bleeder Resistor (TKD)
  • Jensen 4-pole, ASC, and VCap TFTF Capacitor in Power Supply
  • 6N1P and 6N6P tubes
  • Russian K40 as filament AC Bypass Capacitor
  • DACT 100K Stepped Attenuator
  • Jensen Copper Foil Aluminium Tube as High Voltage Bypass Capacitor (inside PCB)
  • Kiwame, Riken, Shinkoh, and Vishay S102 Resistor in critical position and Vishay L6C on “not really important” position
  • Duelund CAST Ag (CAST Silver) as coupling capacitor

cast-ag-testing

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Posted on Sunday, 28th March 2010 by Auw Jimmy

Few months ago, my Aikido transformer was burned due to my stupidity plugging in 100R bleeder resistor, instead of 100K one. Well, I have ordered another replacement few months ago, but just now I have time (and motivation) to install it. This one is an ultimate transformer I believe, with Z11 iron and Germany/Australia wire. I have big concern on power supply, since it’s the food for your audio system. So I expect good and healthy food, I mean, power supply for my audio equipment.

Due to different leads arrangement with my old transformer, I must do some extra job adding some extra wiring. Here is the result.

1-transformer

Not a bad 45 minutes of work, huh?

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Posted on Sunday, 22nd November 2009 by Auw Jimmy

I ordered custom made transformer to replace my old Aikido Pre-Amp transformer. Before, I rarely ordered a “finished” transformer (but prefer doing DIY one with my colleague). But now I’m thinking to try a “proven good” transformer (and considering doing some comparison of its effect).

Finally it’s done. The transformer consisted of few secondaries, to supply my main high voltage, the rectifier, and the tubes.

trafo_setiawan_2

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Posted on Saturday, 26th September 2009 by Auw Jimmy

It’s a weekend holiday and it’s time to scratch my laziness and doing some audio DIY mods. This time, I will try a capacitor from Jensen, the 4-Pole Electrolytic.

What makes it different from standard electrolytic? Well, it has 4 poles instead of 2 of standard electrolytic (that’s why they call it Jensen 4-Pole capacitor – I wonder why 4-Pole instead of 4-Poles?) But that’s simply out of our discussion here.

Again another question, why it has 4 Poles instead of 2? Keep reading.

jensen4pole

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Posted on Wednesday, 23rd September 2009 by Auw Jimmy

I dig my parts bin and found some resistor values which I needed to upgrade my Aikido. I used three brands here, Riken RMG “Metal Film”, Shinkoh “Tantalum”, and Kiwame “Carbon Film”.

Lets fire up the soldering iron ;)

resistor

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Posted on Sunday, 6th September 2009 by Auw Jimmy

Yes, you might call me crazy! A Teflon VCap TFTF on Power Supply section?

If I need to make myself clear, this 0.47uF/600VDC VCap TFTF Teflon capacitor will cost you around US$ 150 each (depends on quantity). So we will spend near US$ 300 only for two VCap TFTF here!!!

And eventually, you will ask why do I put those caps there? ;) Actually this is an “accident”. I bought those VCap few months ago, but it just didn’t match right with my current system (it prefers Duelund CAST PIO) – check the article here, here, and here. So what should I do with them? ;)

vcap

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Posted on Sunday, 23rd August 2009 by Auw Jimmy

Never ending tweaks and mods? Yes I think so. Actually, my Aikido Pre-Amp already sounds good. But as a DIY, I think the journey never ends. Tomorrow always comes with another mods. After completing the PSU mods with Mundorf MCap Supreme 3.3 uF/800VDC and ASC X386S 40 uF/440 VAC here, I decide to go further with some other components.

First, I still hear small hum. This is mainly caused by the Filament/Heater Center Tap of my DIY transformer is not exactly on the center. So the 1/4 B+ isn’t injected on the correct Center Tap position. The only solution is to create a Virtual Center Tap with a pair of 100 Ohm resistor. I use 100 Ohm 5W Kiwame. Some people may say that you can use any cheap resistor for this purpose, but I always choose the best price/performance. At US$ 2 each, Kiwame fits this job perfectly. Make sure you use an accurate resistor (metal film should fit best, carbon film also ok).

psu-divider

I fire up my Aikido and ta-da… no more hum, even when my ear next to the speaker! But I need to confirm later with high-gain amplifier. With a normal/standard gain amplifier, the hum is usually less noticeable.

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Posted on Monday, 17th August 2009 by Auw Jimmy

I just change my old “Aruki” Korean oil-can capacitor to ASC and Mundorf MCap Supreme. The configuration before is 60 uF and 40 uF Aruki Capacitor, now changed to 3.3 uF MCap Supreme and 40 uF ASC X386s.

The effect? The mid and high are getting more liquid. Background is even darker, with better separation and richer timbre. No surprise some people love the film and oil capacitor on the Power Supply section, and this MCap + ASC combination also proves such theory.

For cheaper solution, I usually go with Solen or SCR.

aikido-mod

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Posted on Saturday, 15th August 2009 by Auw Jimmy

Still remember my Aikido project? Until now, I’m still using Octal socket (since most of my rectifiers are Octal based, like 5U4, GZ37, etc).  Few weeks ago, I was poisoned with RGN Rectifier. Well, I knew this tube for long time, but just that time was poisoned badly. Have no choice, got to get one at eBay.

How do I use it on my Aikido? I’m too lazy to modify the socket, I decide to create a DIY Socket Converter, from B4 to Octal.

Most European tubes use this Socket. But in this project, I will specify the usage for RGN Rectifier tubes. Most of my RGN will use 4 Volt heater, while the standard Octal will use 5 Volt. What should I do? Piece of cake, just put 2 Resistors in both heaters line. Considering the RGN will consume around 1 A current, then 0.5R will do perfectly to drop from 5 Volt to around 4 Volt (I prefer to use 0.33R each to drop to 4.3 Volt, in case my main line drop a little bit at night).

Below is the necessary parts ;)

An empty Octal socket, B4/B5 Socket, and two 0.33R resistors.

1_parts

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