Posted on Tuesday, 17th August 2010 by Auw Jimmy
It has been a long journey, me, as a DIY in this “audiophile” (or “idiot-phile” world). Listening cable’s sound, capacitor’s sound, tube’s sound, resistor’s sound, et cetera. It sounds so stupid and silly for most people. What makes my DIY stuffs sound different from a boom-box which you could find easily on most electronic store (at affordable price)? Why someone must spend $100 or more for a capacitor or vintage tube? Why? If you are that kind of person, I would recommend to leave this page. Because all listed below are completely non-sense for you.
I spent a lot for this kind of stuffs. And now, I’m completely overloaded. I keep some of my stuffs to make sure I will have enough spare for my future projects. The rest of this “junks” must be thrown away (and transferred into cash) for another step of my DIY journey (which never ends).
Some of the pricing might not be cheap. This is due to shipment cost and tax issue. I envy you who lives around the Europe or USA. A lot of great stuffs are there, at reasonable cost. Here, we are stuck with shipment cost (and tax) which might be similar with the unit price itself.
Anyway, I’m not a seller of audio stuff. This is not my main business and I’m not selling in rush. So please understand if mostly I don’t accept any bargain. Even if I have a lot but I don’t want to sell for some reason, it will remain on my shelves. Please understand.
Drop me an email to me@jimmyauw.com if you are interested to purchase some of the item below.
All below photos are taken by myself and showing the real appearance and item condition. What you see is what you get. Click the photo for larger size.
PS: Some items already sold out! So I remove them from the list.
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Shuguang 300BS-B Vacuum Tube
This tube could be claimed as one of the most reasonable tube for 300B fans. Priced slightly less than US$ 300, Shuguang offers Globe shaped 300B with carbonized mesh plate (pure nickel). Ceramic base with gold plated pins. Come with original gift box with the measurement sheets. Plate current tested at 65 mA for both tubes, while the transconductance is 6.5 and 6.3 mA/V respectively. This is a nice tube if you are looking for 300B at below US$ 300 price tag. Personal suggestion: If you want to get higher grade, get the Sophia 300B Princess Carbon/Mesh Plate. This may cost you US$ 400-600, depends on the specification and warranty.
Condition: New, never used.
Asking price: Rp 2.750.000 (stock only 1 pair).
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AudioNote 0.47 uF / 630 Volt Copper Foil Mylar-in-Oil Capacitor
One of the finest capacitor from famous brand in audio world, AudioNote. This is the latest design which incorporates Mylar instead of Paper technology with the Copper Foil. AudioNote believes this new Mylar-in-Oil design could provide better durability thus will longer the life span. Audio Note uses copper as the chassis (easily oxidized!) and silver for the leadouts (same, easily oxidized to). This “oxidation” issue is very common. The pureness of material makes them easily oxidized (it’s a good sign, actually), but the appearance will be looked slightly ugly. It’s a two sides knife. There’s no way for you to prevent this from happening, except to control your room humidity. You can clean them with “metal polish liquid” if really needed.
Condition: Used around 150++ hours to pass break-in period, compared with Jensen for my blog article, then posted here waiting for a new lucky owner.
Asking price (2 pcs or 1 pair): Rp 900.000 (0.47 uF / 630 Volt). Retail price at PCX is around US$ 116 (pair)! Stock only 1 pair.
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Jensen 0.47 uF / 630 Volt and 1 uF / 630 Volt Copper Foil/Paper Tube Paper-in-Oil Capacitor
Jensen is also a long time player in the capacitor industry. They not only supply for the audio, but also for another high voltage application in the capacitor industry. One of their latest technology (not really latest) is the capacitor with Paper based chassis. So instead of using Aluminum or Copper as other commonly use, they use Paper as the chassis material (very interesting idea). Inside, the technology also based on famous Paper dielectric (in-Oil) with Pure Copper Foil material. Actually, Jensen has 4 chassis type. From the cheapest to the most expensive, Aluminum, Paper, Copper, then Ceramic. Aluminum may cost around US$ 40 each (for 0.47), while the Paper will jump up to around US$ 100. Copper and Ceramic may cost 10-20% more from Paper.
Condition: New, never used. I will not sell the already passed break-in period, since this capacitor is my current reference for “affordable” capacitor (below my current reference, Duelund CAST Ag).
Asking price (2 pcs or 1 pair):
Rp 1.750.000 (0.47 uF / 630 Volt). Retail price at PCX is around US$ 228 (pair)!
Rp 2.100.000 (1 uF / 630 Volt). Retail price at PCX is around US$ 280 (pair)!
Stock is currently 1 pair for each value.
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Jensen 4-pole Electrolytic Capacitor 470 uF / 450 VDC
Jensen announces their new innovation in the capacitor industry, the 4-pole capacitor. This is not like ordinary multi-pole capacitor with multiple capacitance. This capacitor only has single capacitance, but has 4-poles: One positive input, one negative input, one positive output, and one negative output. What is the point of this? To separate the previous stage (connected to positive/negative input) and next stage (connected to positive/negative output) in your power supply rail (with the Jensen on the center). So basically this Jensen 4-pole will act like an inter-stage transformer which will separate the before and after stage where he is installed. Quite sensational, eh? Best used on the C2 position, to provide ample capacitance and separate unwanted noise between C1 and C3. The overall sound of this capacitor tends to be very neutral, plain, perhaps almost no character. Wait after it passes the 200++ hours break-in period, and you will get a very dynamic, clean, smooth, and details from low mid to high, but still remains neutral.
Condition: New, never used.
Asking price (1 pc): Rp 725.000. Stock for sale is 1 pc only. Retail price at PCX is US$ 89.05!
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JAN Raytheon 5842 / 417A Vacuum Tubes
Tube 5842 or 417A is a high transconductance single triode in miniature construction. The design also features low noise (beside high transconductane and medium mu), which is suitable for a single stage design to drive power tube, example like 2A3 (you can search for the schematic around the Internet). So instead of using more expensive 6SN7 or 6SL7, you can try different approach with this single triode miniature tube. The 6.3 volt heater only consumes 300mA of current. With amplification factor of 43, you can have a lot of design possibility. Also, not to mention it’s reasonable price. Reason for selling this is I got enough on hand (check picture).
Condition: Was bought several years ago, claimed as NOS by the seller, but can see some burn marks on the top glass silver getter. Although this burn marks doesn’t always indicating an used tube, but it’s fair enough for the buyer to understand first. Check picture for detail.
Asking price (1 pair): Rp 500.000. Stock for sale is 2 pairs only.
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DACT Stepped Attenuator 100 KOhm
DACT CT-2 Stepped Attenuator provides 24 steps and 60 dB of attenuation. This series based attenuator use 23 low resistance, non-inductive, metal film SMD resistor to provide shortest signal path and best accuracy. The sound is clean, smooth, excellent staging, and dark background. For me, the taste of this SMD on DACT is quite different compared to leaded based resistor on other type of attenuator. I’m not saying which one is better, but they both has their own taste and follower.
Condition: New, never used.
Asking price (1 pc): Rp 2.000.000. Stock for sale is 1 pc only.
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Knight 600B Emission Based Tube Tester
One of the most popular, easy to use, and affordable Tube Emission Tester, the Knight 600 Series. This will test for the emission for almost all of your tubes collection, from #26, 5U4, to 12AX7, even it covers some socket which both me and you might not (or never) familiar with. Physical condition is perhaps not really good. Comes with original wooden box and handle (some rust here and there). Unit is working, but I think it will need some calibration and good step-down transformer (this one has 115 Volt input). This is a nice tester, but only for “go-and-no-go” quick decision. I’m selling this because I don’t have any use of having two tube testers. I will keep my Hickok 539B as my future tester. One is enough. I have some copy/printed manual and also additional tube data (which not listed on the roll chart) for this Knight 600B and will give to the new owner. Off course, you can always use the roll chart for most of the time, if your tube is listed there.
Condition: Need some calibration and wood working, considering this is over 40 or 50 years old unit. Unit power on and can be used to measure tube for emission. But for best result, I would suggest to do some calibration (which is not too difficult if you know some about electronics).
Asking price: Contact me! Only for serious buyer who knows what he/she is buying!























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August 24th, 2010 at 07:06
Sukses buat Lapaknya pak Jim..
Huehehehehe…
*naksirkapasitorbambutapibelumdapetapproval*
August 24th, 2010 at 09:18
He he he, kalo buat Kumendan nanti bisa diaturkan lah
August 24th, 2010 at 13:10
Ndan, sudah waktunya pakai capacitor bambu kayaknya …. hehehehe …. go for it, Ndan ….
August 24th, 2010 at 21:16
Racunnnnnn terusssss!!!!!
October 4th, 2010 at 14:31
Hello Jimmy, saya ada masalah dengan meter tube tester, dimana bisa contact you? Email and phone number please. THanks
October 4th, 2010 at 18:39
Saya sudah jawab via email.
Thanks.
November 17th, 2010 at 17:55
Nice blog. I see you are selling your DACT attenuator. I have found that I prefer the sound of ‘ladder style’ attenuators over series attenuators. Maybe you do as well? I have made a couple pairs of mono ladder attenuators with low cost switches and resistors. In my opinion these beat out the DACT.
November 17th, 2010 at 19:07
Hi Darius,
No, I sell because I have two. I have used 1 and will send the other because I want to try other brands.
I think most SMD like attenuator, like this DACT, tends to have “uncolored” sound (even with series). While most of the standard resistor based (with either cheap or expensive switches) tends to have colored sound based on what resistor that you use. I prefer ladder for this kind of attenuator, but series would be just fine with SMD resistor.
Which one is the best? It’s your call. But cheap switches wont last long, that’s why I avoid it except for cheap project. Elma or Seiden is my preference, although you can get el-cheapo on eBay for fraction of price, but they wont last long – I’ve been there before.
Thanks.
January 1st, 2011 at 07:03
Sorry that I’m too lazy to research price conversion on your parts for sale. But what is currency Rp??? To US dollar
Regards,
Teng
January 1st, 2011 at 11:55
Hi Teng,
1 US$ equals to Rp 9000.
Please be noted that we use “period” as thousand separator, instead of “comma”.
Thanks.
January 7th, 2011 at 20:12
hello jimmy
are an audiophile and I’m building manufacturer psu (preamp) (RC filter) and paranoia in regard to electrolyte
What are the best on the market jensen 4 electrolytic poly? baypass?
or do I make polypropylene (continental the best? baypassati? to myke elliot with dynamic caps?) and filter lc
sound difference between LC and RC filters?
rc currently use because most pure on wide frequency range!
January 11th, 2011 at 21:50
Hi Sandro,
You can go with film caps, if you don’t like electrolytic.
The best on the market probably Black Gate WKZ and for current production, Mundorf and Jensen are two name that you have to put on list. Mundorf has film caps for this power supply application, while Black Gate and Jensen probably stick with electrolytic one.
LC will give lower noise and more “extra” power, but all of this is at extra cost. Bear in mind that you must have extra voltage on secondary winding, due to very high voltage drop after the rectifier.
Thanks.
January 27th, 2011 at 19:38
hallo pak jimmy, salam kenal…..
apa Jensen 0.47 uF / 630 Volt Copper Foil/Paper Tube Paper-in-Oil Capacitor pair masih ada?
tolong reply via email nett harganya, thanks….
February 13th, 2011 at 17:39
Hi Jimmy, I like your blog. I am looking for a tube tester, but I think I may need something more sophisticated than the Knight 600B if it is only good for “go/no go” decisions. What would I need to be able to match tubes? My brother-in-law is building me a guitar amp(here in Jakarta)using tubes I have bought from overseas that are supposed to be matched. He is good with electronics but is not experienced with tubes. Later we may need to match tubes ourselves as I want to build more amps. I also want to try different tubes. Is there anyone selling tubes in Jakarta? Do you provide a service to match them? If not, does anyone else?
David
February 13th, 2011 at 18:35
Hi David,
Yes, Knight is only for fun (we are talking at serious stage). I bought this long time ago, later I replace this one with the more serious model, Hickok 539B as below link:
http://jimmyauw.com/2010/01/08/hickok-539b-tube-tester/
Sorry that I don’t provide a service to match tube.
In Jakarta, there is several place to visit if you want to buy tubes, like Ricky (Bella-Audio), Thomas (Audiokitmania), and some other DIY which selling tubes (mostly personal, not on online), or you can also search in local forum like Kaskus. You can Google to find out more about these name/online stores. But I doubt anyone provide matching service as the tube tester mostly extinct like dinosaur
To match tube, probably you need a serious tester which can measure the current at specific running voltage and load. Some professional like my Hickok 539B can do this, or you can go with newer generation and hassle-free Amplitrex Tube Tester (use Google to find out). But this kind of stuff could be pricey. The Hickok 539B in good condition probably will go over US$1000 (very expensive for over 60 years stuff), while the Amplitex could cost over US$ 2000 (but this one has most sophisticated latest technology with microprocessor inside).
Thanks.
March 12th, 2011 at 20:29
Hi Pak Jimmy,
Resistor Duelund masih ada?
Bales via e-mail saja please
Thanks
April 30th, 2011 at 19:31
mau perbaiki speaker celestion ditton 662 ada tpt yg direkomendasikan td pak?, tidak harus purist, cepat yang penting bagus & tidak mahal, trims
azis
April 30th, 2011 at 20:40
Hi,
Rusak apanya Celestion-nya?
Thanks.
June 13th, 2011 at 20:21
Hi Jimmy,
I was just wondering when you’ll be reviewing the new Duelund Alexander caps.
Thanks, Nick
June 13th, 2011 at 20:51
Hi Nick,
After several consideration, I don’t think I will review them at this moment. Probably later.
Thanks.
June 14th, 2011 at 16:11
mau tanya dunk pak jim… aku punya speaker altec lansing acs 56 kondisinya semua masih bagus…. cuman klo dicolok dilistrik speaker yang ada setelan bass, treble, mode dan volume lampunya nyala semua.. (biasanya ndak nyala semua..) trus klo dicabut dan dicolok ulank ke listrik ndak bisa nyala sama sekali… aku udah bawa persi servis keliling2 tp semua tukang servis angkat tangan.. semuanya cuman bilank IC nya udah lemah (rusak).. mesti diganti.. cuman IC nya itu katanya ndak ada yang jual.. benarkah begitu??? bingung juga nih.. bodynya dan speakernya masih mulus soalnya… mungkin penyebabnya bisa begitu karena suka mati lampu dan tegangan listrik naik turun tanpa pakai stabiliser… mohon dibantu yah pak jim…
June 16th, 2011 at 00:21
Halo Pak Dedy,
Kalo barang branded seperti itu takutnya IC-nya khusus. Mungkin agak susah dicari di pasaran. Maaf tidak bisa bantu lebih jauh.
Thanks.
June 28th, 2011 at 17:10
Dear Jimmy ,
was looking up tube selections for a 9 pin Aikido..when I found your page with the Aikido shootout.
I have a modified Moskido Amp – ( Aikido 6SN7′s / buz900/905 )driven by balanced DAC inputs –
Damn. You guys build gear the way I want mine to
look !!
Massive Kudos guys. I was very seriously impressed.
You have all inspired me to do better.
PG
New Zealand
June 28th, 2011 at 22:25
Good luck PG…
Thanks.
July 25th, 2011 at 07:24
Pak Jimmy,
DACT nya masih ada? Harganya boleh kurangin lagi gak pak? Japri yah kalo bisa. Thanks a lot.
September 16th, 2011 at 21:52
Hallo pak Jimmy
Tolong pencerahan dong, sy punya integrated mono blok tube ak nya sangat mengganggu.
(bekas engine nya tape reel Akai) kalau dihidupkan muncul suara gmeretak smakin lama smakin keras, diawali dgn kresek2. Kalau penguatan nya masih bekerja normal tapi ya itu suara gmeretak nya sangat mengganggu.
Kira2 komponen apa ya penyebabnya?
Trims atas bantuannya
September 19th, 2011 at 21:33
Hi Pak Bastian,
Sulit untuk menerka tanpa melihat langsung. Saran saya sebaiknya dibawa ke tempat reparasi elektronik yang mengerti tabung. Bisa karena lampunya, socketnya, ataupun faktor2 external lainnya.
Thanks.
October 19th, 2011 at 23:27
Halo pak jimmy saya minat tube svetlananya saya sudah kirim email ke bapak saat ini saya mau mengganti rectifier tube bawaan ampli saya (toshiba 5u4gb) apakah compatibel kalau ya saya booked yah thanks
October 19th, 2011 at 23:58
Hi Pak Sugih,
Maaf sudah sold 1pc, tapi saya belum update. Sisanya saya keep beberapa untuk pakai sendiri.
Thanks.
October 24th, 2011 at 19:28
Jimmy. Do you have WE417A tube? Need a matched pair. Please contact me directly on email if you have some to offer. Thanks, David
October 24th, 2011 at 22:41
Hi David,
No, I only sell 5842. The WE417A is not for sale he he he…
Thanks.
October 25th, 2011 at 11:40
I understand. Thanks
November 24th, 2011 at 14:16
Hello Bung Jimmy, Jensen Tube Paper 0.47/630volt best pricenya bisa tolong PM , tx
December 27th, 2011 at 11:06
Oom Jimmy,
Sorry agak OOT nih, bingung mau nanya dimana.. Kalo di indo yang jual caps macam Elna & BlackGate yang terjamin asli & terpercaya dimana ya oom? Kalau ada yang online lebih baik lagi..
Sy lagi belajar bikin ampli nih. Kalau menurut oom Jimmy karakter Elna Silmic ii VS Cerafine VS BlackGate gimana ya, any comments?
Terima kasih oom, sukses terus !
December 27th, 2011 at 11:26
Hi Pak Peter,
Mungkin bisa coba ke toko yang sudah terpercaya oleh rekan2 DIY. Di Glodok dan LTC ada. Coba aja tanya2 di milis atau forum DIY Indonesia (macamnya milis elpop-audio atau beberapa forum DIY lokal). Saya ga enak post disini ntar kesannya yang lain tidak terjamin
Kalo baru mulai, pake komponen biasa aja dulu Pak. Ntar baru upgrade pelan2. Tidak semua komponen mahal pasti bagus, karena ada karakternya masing2.
Cerafine dan Black Gate ada banyak tipe dan tiap tipe tentunya berbeda karakter dan peruntukannya.
Thanks.