I dont understand? What do you want to know?
Don’t worry, found the old bit and got a trim pot close enough in shape to bodge a plan.
I just wanted to know what the adjustment pot component was to find an equivalent.
But all fixed now.
Can you please send my email, tomcostigan (at) aol (dot) com, to Bill Eccher ? I would like to talk with him about a Hichok 539C tester. Thanks a ton.
All The Best !!
Sent to Bill. Maybe he will contact you shortly.
I’m living in Jakarta and keen to learn/build some dyi audio but I’m stuck finding shops to buy gear, parts etc. Can you recommend any?
btw, great site you have here.
You can start at Glodok, or some online shop around.
pak jimmy, mohon informasi kalau ada komunitas gainclone di semarang. mungkin pak Jimmy punya referensi. terima kasih
Halo Pak Denny,
Coba cek ke forum solfegio atau milis elpop-audio.
This is funny. Check out the pics. Duelunds resistor is nothing more than a 50 cent Faber Castel 5H pencil lead, which doesn’t even have much carbon in it. A 5B has more carbon. This is pure graphite and has no silver in it at all.
The pics can be found at the following website address. Apparently, this site won’t let me post a link so You’ll have to put in the www before it.
To be honest, I can see long time ago that they use graphite things inside the resistor (well everyone could see it inside the “bamboo” hole which covers the resistor). If you ever read Troel Gravesen website, he also ever mentions about the usage of such technique.
For this Duelund and Faber Castel things, I also have read around end of last year (or early this year). But I didn’t pay a lot of attention on it.
I have the standard and the CAST one. For the CAST one, as they “cast” it with something, so what’s inside probably not clear enough. But I assume they are the same materials, except additional casting process.
I bought them around $20 or less (on discount session I think, few years ago from PCX). For this amount, I think the cost is still reasonable. I’m not on Duelund side, but making the resistor (removing the wood from the Faber Castel without breaking the graphite is also not an easy job), then must connect it to the wire (which not solderable on the graphite side), make the bamboo cover, etc, probably won’t be easy if you do DIY. Even if I knew about this earlier, I prefer to spend $15-20 to buy the finished one, guarantee to work, and no risk. Sometime DIY also nice, but I’ve never DIY on component parts due to higher risk – yet.
Some other foil based resistor like S102 or the higher end model, TX2575, also quite pricey. I don’t think the raw material could be that expensive to.
You also can see thousand $$$ for a CD Player which based on CD-Pro2 which we know the cost is less than $1K or even less than 500$. Why don’t make by ourselves? Guido Tent from TentLabs also makes his DIY CD Player, but the price also not cheap. I think this is the “school fee” that we have to pay in order to respect their design and creation (and you just sit back, give your credit card number, and wait them to be delivered). If it sounds bad, definitely they will have bad reputation from the customer, sooner or later 🙂
So my opinion is, just take it or leave it. If you can make it better and cheaper, the market is wide open for you to do it 🙂 Perhaps somebody got idea with 5B and more carbon? Then do comparison with Duelund one, publish on DIYAudio, AA, Audiogon, etc? Why not? But as in most business does, if you can make it better, I’m quite sure you will sell it even more expensive, right? 🙂
pak jimmy kok bikin pcbnya bisa rapi begitu ya, mirip buatan pabrik. triknya gimana itu ? kalo berkenan boleh di share buat para pemula.
PCB yang mana nih?
Itu pak Jim, yang PCB tampil di artikel “AD1865 I2S Input PCB”. Sepertinya itu dual layer ya pak ?
Benar dual layer.
Post komen-nya di sana saja Pak, jangan di postingan “About”, supaya tidak bingung.
hello and good day to you jimmy, first of congrats you truly posses a talent very few have in this wonderfull art. Im new to the hobby and wish to make the best quality amp I possibly can not only because my tube amp recently passed away (effing light outs) but also since this will gount as my final proyect in college this semester lol so any help, schematics, pieces, parts, walkthroughs or simple support will be forever thanked. oh and a good question, can one build a 7.1 surround sound system based on single ended amps, preamps and power? with kind and warm regarths uour fan luis
What kind of amp that you have in mind?
‘a best amp’ wont hint us to something… 🙂
Can I burn-in a Mundorf SGO caps in a CD player by just playing the CDP without connecting the CDP to an amp?
Better if you connect it to the amp…
hi Jimmy – I am an expat in JKT and one of my Altec Lansing speakers not working – I think it’s the jack /wiring… getting that all too familiar ‘buzz’ sound – can you recommend a shop where I can take it get to repaired… I tried to take it apart but can’t find any screws!! (alamak!) looks like it’s molded one piece… I am sure a repair shop can sort it…..any suggestions???
Not quite sure if you can find a place to repair as you are an expat (mostly such places located in not to comfort area).
I enjoy reading your blog.
I have done upgrades to my speakers crossovers. Used Obbligato copper caps, and Janzten Cross cap in other speakers, replacing the Solen.
Ive been using a solder, i cant even find much information on the internet. Its Goot SF-A0410 (3% silver, 0.5%copper, rest tin). It dries super fast, components sound fine to me.
I am curious about Mundorf Suprememe with 9.5% silver content, you gave it a nice review. In the past, ive also used WBT-0800.
I start to switch to Mundorf Supreme for some application, but still have WBT around 250gram on hand… 🙂 Both are good…
I’m thinking of tweaking my Audible Illusions preamp’s power supply caps. It uses 2 4700 uf/50V and a 10,000 uf/10V. Seems have to use electrolytics given the large capacitance, even though I’ve heard that file and foil caps are better. What do you think of the Mundorf MLytic?
Any suggestion would be much appreciated.
There are several good brands electrolytic. Mundorf is one of them.
Film/Foil caps is not always better than electrolytic…
First of all hope you have a good 2012.
I’m one of the fans of your site. I’m wondering if you have 2 pcs of Black Gate 100uf+100uf 500V for sell.
Kindly let me know pls.
Yes I have some for my private use, but at this moment (also due to the market pricing out there), I dont think I will sell it.
Sorry. Have a good 2012 for you to.
Pak, pernah pengalaman reparasi CDP – Rotel RCD 1072? atau punya kontak service center nya?
kasusnya: tiba2 no disc. padahal tiap minggu masih rutin di-play.
Hi Pak Ryan,
Coba bawa ke tempat belinya saja. Mungkin mereka bisa bantu.
I was wondering which one of these 3 you choose for coupling caps in a tube amp: Clarity cap MR, V-cap cuTF, or Duelund Alexander.
I’m leaning towards either the V-cap or the Alexander. But I admit I’ve never heard either one, just read about them.
I would spend more for Duelund CAST 🙂
I would too, but both the funds and space in my amps are too limited. 😉
If you had to choose one (CC MR, V-cap cuTF, or Alexander) which would it be and why?
I dont think VCap is a cheap choice anyway? 🙂
Btw, it’s not easy to decide, as those three mostly in different league and I have no idea where you gonna put that and what is your preference in terms of the ‘music’ itself. Giving suggestion at this stage is merely a ‘guessing game’ and I dont think it’s a wise choice 🙂
I think I’ll probably spend more and step up to Duelund VSF.
The Vcap is much cheaper in my size (.22uF).
It depends on your system…
Hi Jimmy, your blog is truly very inspiring and informative. I like your work. I like to seek your advice regarding on cdp mod. My cdp power caps are 4700uf 25v. But if I change to 10000uf 25v, does it help to improve the sound quality? I not intending to change the clock or some drastic mods. My cdp is Marantz CD6000ose KI. Thanks for the help.
The important is to change with a better quality one. Size doesn’t really matter in here (at least not as main priority).
Hello everyone. kindly need your info.
what toroidal transformer type for altec mx5021?
thank you 🙂
As far as I know, MX5021 uses standard EI transformer, not Toroid. Also if I could recall my memory correctly, MX5021 needs two secondary windings with 2 different voltage. Maybe not easy to get toroid with that spec. Btw, it would be better if you post under MX5021 related entry, not on this “About” page 🙂
Hey Jimmy, I just recently got my brother’s MX5021. He told me he was having some problem with them and they don’t produce any sound. I anyways got them to check. I have no experience with speakers. I was just wondering if they can be repaired. The woofer is able to power up the control pod and the speakers but there is no sound. The satellites work fine when I connect them to some other player but they don’t work when connected to MX5021 woofer. I got the woofer checked with local electrician and he said all the internal wiring is fine. Any clue?
I believe your local electrician could have some skill checking electronics. So he would be the best guy you can find for good advise. Hard to “remotely” find the problem from here, but I suspect your amp chipset could have some problem.
selamat siang pak Jimmy….
Bisakah saya mendapatkan contact person bapak atau email bapak untuk pembicaraan tentang pembuatan article produk kami..
I’m a British expat living and working here, I have a passion in Audio mostly Theatre Systems however am building a 2 channel rig. Was wandering where are you located? I am located in Bintaro Sector 3 and would like join your events?
It would be very nice if you can join our even which we call GUYUB AUDIO BINTARO. Jimmy Auw is my (our) best friend, he is also my teacher for tweaking. You are most welcome to join on the next even on Sept 29, 2012 at my home : Jl. Titihan 2 HG12A/14, Bintaro Sektor 9 (just in front of “SEKOLAH JEPANG”). My email : firstname.lastname@example.org.
Well, thank you Bung Jimmy !
The host of the event is Mr Didik Wiryawan. His home is not too far away from your place, I think.
hai bro jimmy,
saya minta email nya boleh ? mau tanya2 sedikit tentang modding car audio amp..
Kebetulan saya mau membuat integrated amplifier dengan minimal 3 input dan pre-out untuk subwoofer. Apakah ada rekomendasi paket lengkap dan dimana belinya ?
Hi Pak Anto,
Ini maksudnya paket lengkap barang jadi kah? Kalo seperti itu umumnya bisa didapat di amplifier integrated. Mereknya ada banyak macam, harga juga bervariasi sekitar 2jutaan ke atas biasanya.
Kalo rakitan, rasanya bisa cari di Glodok.
Numpang tanya. Saya mau mods JP200 versi analog metric.
Masih di perdebatkan capacitor mana yg baik utk electronics menurut Pak Jimmy
Jupiter HT or Ampohm Aluminium Foil?
Hi Pak Didit,
Tergantung karakter suara sekarang seperti apa dan karakter apa yang Anda suka nantinya.
Ada recomend tempat utk beli kit amplifier / pre-amp / PCB di daerah HARCO?
Cuma tau tempat Bowo Electronics sama Ayung.
Kalau tdk keberatan bisa PM saya ke email?
Mail (will not be published)