sir jimmy, can you furnish me the pin configuration
of altec lansing vs4121 9pins connector, because all the wire of my connectors are all cut off.
admirable blog. You are a technical freak using wordpress like me. haha. anyway. nice too meet you. i got your blog from google.
Very nice capacitor grouping!
Question: what is “sweet”? I can understand the clarity and definition is superior with the teflon capacitor, but I’m not quite “getting” what is superior with the better paper and oils. More 3d imaging? Better harmonic saturation?
The one capacitor that probably should have been included was the Jupiter condenser capacitor (..despite tempo electrics marginal rating). I wouldn’t be surprised if it was very similar to the paper tube Jensen copper while being about half the cost.
Here are some additional links:
Again, thank you very much for the testing!
It’s a little bit difficult to define “sweet” by word (perhaps due to my limited vocab in English). I think we can also use “warm” or “mellow” (but not “dull”), which you can “taste” the lips, tongue, even singer’s breathe when singing. I think this refers to better harmonic saturation also. Like comparing a 300B tube vocal vs solid state vocal. Perhaps with this you can understand what do I mean by “sweet”.
We can’t make a general assumption about all Paper-In-oil Caps, since not all of them have similar sound. Let’s say Audio Note vs Jensen Paper-In-Oil. Even they both same Paper-In-Oil, but Jensen has better high frequency tones, while perhaps Audio Note has even “sweeter” vocal. More different if you try Jensen Paper Tube or Duelund.
I have tried Jupiter once… but this caps had gone away long ago (I sold it to my friend). Perhaps just not my cup of tea. If I could recall my memory correctly, the tones of this Jupiter is between Audio Note Copper and Jensen “classic” Copper. To Jensen Paper Tube? I can’t confirm, but I don’t think so.
And as my caveat has been written, the result my subject to the listener preference. YMMV.
Thanks for the links.
Thank you for the reply Jimmy!
I can understand that 300B vs. solid state (..well, good solid state).
You could well be correct about the Jupiter capacitor. Note though that their materials/mechanical formulation has changed (..though for all I know it could be worse).
Anyway, again a big thank you!
(BTW, loved the use of the CD cases for the switch face-plate.)
Thanks for your comments.
I have moved your comments to here:
Just to make the discussion easier to be followed.
In reference to your recent cap comparisons. You should give the Claritycap ESA a try as a coupling cap. It doesn’t compare to Duelund of course, but it has a nice warm tone to it and is very affordable. They’re also very compact in size. For a little more transparency and a little more high end tilt, the Claritycap MR is also a great coupling cap. Both are also just as impressive in speaker crossovers.
Thanks for your information. Too bad when I bought all caps from PCX, they didnt carry ClarityCap. Here in my country (Indonesia), hardly to find a good caps. So I need to buy overseas. From your description, I think the ESA could be similar to Jensen. But if I could recall my brain correctly, the MR also quite expensive.
In the future, please post it here:
Not in this about page. Just to simplify the discussion.
dear jimmy, i hope you can help me with my problem. i own a konzert ks-8w subwoofer(this is the only sub i can afford)but unfortunately the toroidal transformer was burnt, i forgot the unit to turn off after listening a number of songs. it just stays on for almost one day. since in our place there was no support from konzert, so i opt to buy an ei type transformer since there is also no available toroidal transformer here. the rating of ei is 18v-0-18v, 3Amp. the rating of thr toroidal trans is 17.5v-0-17.5v, i don’t know the ampere rating but it has 220VA printed. now my problem comes in here, all relevant connection to the transformer was already done by soldering. but when i turn on the switch, the fuse would suddenly blow. i would replaced it again and still it would blow. what is supposed the problem? i hope you can find time answering me. i was really thankful i come across on your website. than you and god bless. eric
I happen to have a black plate RCA 12b4a NOS tube and 3 NOS 6bq5/EL84 tubes. Are you interested in them to purchase?
Hello Jimmy I’ve been reading your journal/articles/blog..? with great interest for some time. And now I’m looking to take advantage of your experience (mwahaha) *evil laugh*. Well, that is if you’ll allow it. I’m making psu for some nxV300 modules (aussieamplifiers) and aiming for 60-100k uf per channel, toroid +-500va (dual mono). I need advice on caps to use, they shouldn’t be ultra expensive, but they could be “a little expensive” if that give much improvement.
So, you have any good advice? (oh, and they should be about 100v 8-15k uf range)
You can try Jensen 4-pole.
halo pak jimmy, punya koleksi tube2 12at7 ecc81 801 dan 12bh7 gk? sy lg cari bbrp yg cocok. please email balik ya. tq
nicohansamu at gmail dot com
Tidak ada Pak.
Jimmy, can I get your comments on Mr. X’s RS241 amplifier? I’ve been looking to go for one, and I was interested in getting it made by tube lovers indonesia… pls email me at lindenpark at gmail dot com, thanks!!!
If you are on the way of 300B or 2A3, then this RS241 should be on the end of your journey.
pak jimmy nomor hp nya berapa ?
Untuk keperluan apa Pak?
iya pak minta no telp atau id ym atau msn nya deh…
pengen nanya2 componen or all about musick
Japri aja bro.
When are you going to give us your impressions of the new V-Cap compared to the old (ie the CuTF vs the TFTF?)
I think the CuTF has limited capacitance for now? If I could recall my brain correctly, the max capacitance is 0.33uF? While my TFTF is 0.47. Not really a nice comparison.
Jimmy (and anyone who can advice), i got a quite inappropriate question. As it is the only Indonesian site in the world I know, maybe you can give me a lead.
Dont’t you know some local site where I can buy some kilo’s of REAL PALM SAGO PEARLS? Maybe some on-line grossery or just discussion boards with English speaking people where I could order a bit of this.
Hopefully, it wasn’t too stupid 🙂
P.S. My Altec 5021 mod doing fine. Now building a tube hea-damp.
Hi Jimmy, i am one of your avid web site readers and i love to visit your web site. What do you think about the impamp? Do you have any idea for a small pre amp and recommendation for bookshelf speaker for it?
Never heard that one, so hardly to comment. But if some rumors on the diyaudio are correct, then this is a nice stuff.
No need preamp I believe, just with your source volume control (like PC Sound Card or iPod or CDP). Can try passive attenuator also.
For the speaker, I got no idea. Perhaps a DIY with 3″ like Tangband?
Thanks Jimmy for giving me hints of having a passive attenuator. I discovered a supplier
Any comment? I like to drive the mini tube amp with a cd player source. It looks like they need to know system spec before install the resistor.
My imp amp tube input have -20db consumer to +4db pro level adjustable trimmers.
By the way, the imp amp tube video is
Best regards and thanks
Plesae give us quoatation :
– Capasitor 8uF 1000 VAC
Qty : 6 pc
I’m sorry, I’m not a seller. You can try to find in local electronic shop or online shop.
Quite an exhaustive plethora of information here. Very impressed by your passion for electronics on the inside of the musical boxes, which actually makes or break the music.
AA) Jim, i need your feelers on Elma &/or Shallco switches. I have picked a Promitheus Signature 2 box TVC version. I have gone ahead with & in past have had experience of hearing a Shallco but never and Elma.
Could it be possible to share some details, if you have been able to compare them both ever.
BB) What possibly could be added to a TVC passive-pre to make it sound more huge in all possible respects. Considering we is being used for now it C-core transformer, Elma switches, copper plates etc. (You can avoid this question if its vague to reply back)
This is the only pic i could get of it – http://upload.review33.com/images/200905/200905232228539455.jpg (its a double box design housing a single C-core transformer)
Also, this one is theie reference version – http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=p788lnpq7pujjr9mv097i7bekoheu8ga&action=gallery;sa=view;id=20785 (This one is a single box dual-core variant with smaller c-cores into one)
Anyway, thanks for your time.
I think Shallco should be higher grade compared to Elma. Or you can go with Seiden for the ultimate one.
I think the problem with most TVC is with the output. I would suggest to add at least an active buffer circuit, not just the passive TVC circuit itself.
Or at least, you must know exactly to what device (its impedance spec) which match your TVC, to make sure your TVC will perform well with the device connected to its output.
Pak, minta ijin buat nyantumin blognya di tempatku ya..
Sir Jimmy, as you can see, after my mods i still come here for some advice/doubts ! you’re my source for audio knowledge.
So this time is : I’m thinking about creating a party for m friend etc and i was wondering if i could mix my sound system with my brothers.
So a computer would be the source of audio, then a creative xmod(pre amp), then the Altec lansing(amp) , then i would like to attach both my speakers and my brothers both in the same “slot” of altec lansing subwoofer.
this maybe it isnt possible but i would like to understand why, or what kind of criteria is used to calculate this stuff etc.
Any links for information is apreciated Jimmy
Thank you so much, big hug from Portugal : )
All you need is to buy a splitter. So from your x-mod, you can connect to your Altec and your brother’s speaker at the same time.
Let me know if what you need is different than my idea.
Sir Jimmy, your idea is the perfect one , i wonder why i didnt thought about it…..anyway my inicial idea was to conect both speakears, mine(2) and my bro(2), to the alte lansing sub….i understand its against the rules, but i want to know why.
By connecting all the speaker to Altec sub, I assume your idea is to have 2 speakers connected to the left output from Altec sub, and 2 speakers connected to right output from Altec sub, right? So you will have 4 speakers + 1 sub.
Btw, your brother’s speaker is passive or active one?
If your brother’s speaker is active one, definitely you shouldn’t do this. You should follow my previous suggestion.
If your brother’s speaker is passive one, you must check the total impedance first (your brother speaker + your Altec satellite). By combining two speakers on one output (from left or right channel), you must sum the total impedance of both speakers connected and see if they are still in range with the Altec’s amplifier output specification. Otherwise, you may damage Altec’s amplifier inside. But I also not suggest this way, unless you know what you are doing.
Hallo Pak Jimmy,
I’m so glad to have found your website (from Google). Very informative and inspiring 🙂
Would you kindly tell a bit about your system? I just started learning about the wonderful world of DIY, my system consists of modded Marantz CD94 transport outputting I2S to my DAC, custom TDA1541a double crown tube DAC, JLTi EL34 (http://www.customanalogue.com/jlti_el34.htm) with Telefunken PCC88 and Philips brown base double D getter, a pair of Quad 21L2 (to be upgraded to horns setup, either Axiom 80 or Tannoy HPD 385) and a pair of Altecs 515C.
I’ll be visiting Indonesia next month and I’m so keen to know about DIY world there. Thank you.
Hi Pak William,
Currently, I’m “building” my system. Most of the time before, I only put them on the desk, never ending experimenting from CDP to speaker. But now I’m starting to settle them one by one. Lot of funds been spent without a real result sometime makes me feel guilty. It takes time to settle down all these things, just enjoy it.
You have a nice setup. Do you visit ID for vacation or … ?
That’s correct Pak Jimmy, for vacation, been living in down under for a while, it’ll be my first time coming back to my home country after several years, really miss my family and friends there…
About building the system, well aren’t we all the same (I don’t have such expertise as yours though), I just started playing around with components such as Jensen, Duelund, Black Gate, military PIO caps, etc etc… Very true that we have to spend some hard earned cash to experiment things, I’ve been lucky enough to meet some people in here which got vast experience and expertise in this wonderful hifi world. Basically, I’ve been learning from them and I’ve also found my reference system here so I don’t have to waste so much money experimenting stuff.
I’m hoping to learn more and I would really like to meet DIYers, hifi and music lovers back in Indonesia. So if you happen to know any hifi clubs in Jakarta, would you please let me know? It would be great if we can keep in touch and someday meet up as well.
Have a good day.
Yes we have some local mailing-list for this audio and also have some local DIY gathering. You can join if you are interested, at email@example.com.
If you are lucky enough, perhaps you can join our gathering (every 2-3 months usually).
Btw, where are you located now?
Hi Pak Jimmy,
Please contact me by email if you don’t mind, I am uncomfortable sharing my details on the net.
Thanks for the link, and yeah I would really love to join the gathering.
Hi Pak William,
Feel free to join the mailing list directly. Send empty email to firstname.lastname@example.org
See you there.
Hallo Pak Jimmy,
Saya ada masalah dengan meter tube tester, dimana bisa contact bapak? Email atau telepon. THanks
Saya sudah jawab via email.
jensen 470uf 450v sy minat pa trims
Silakan kontak saya via email ke email@example.com
Will you have a way to contact jason liu 劉英似?
Hi Jimmy – weird question out the blue from someone you never met. I been trying to find a local agent (I live in Cape Town) for Sanwa multimeters and failed – or even to find schematic on the Net. I see you use one… (you can see where this is going)…
Would you have a burst of shiny happy goodwill to open yours and tell me what the little pot is for the 0ohm adjust knob? I damaged mine, removed it to replace, then lost it :(((
It’s the YX360TRF…
Would -really- appreciate it…
Mail (will not be published)