Posted on Sunday, 10th May 2009 by Auw Jimmy

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I have received so many emails asking about how to do the mods. Why I do this? Why I do that? Etc… Ok, I will spend my lazy evening to use one good example and write a simple tutorial here. Just enjoy.

I look around my room to find a good and easy example to support this tutorial. Then, my eyes stunned to my old Simbadda CST z120 Dual-O speaker set. Well, it a small speaker, you can’t call it audiophile or even near it. I open the case and find that this small “thing” could become our perfect object.

You can get at your near computer retailer for very cheap price, less than US$10, I think. Feel free to find any other object. I pick this one simply because this is the only thing that I can find at my room (and suitable for this experiment).

Close up shoot. This simple speaker put all the amplifier unit inside the left speaker. Let’s open it!

Aha… there you are. We can see a small PCB contains small amplifier and one potentiometer. Remove and unscrew some screws and pull the PCB outside the chamber.

Now we can see the PCB completely. This speakers are powered with TEA2025B. The next important step is to find datasheet of this TEA2025B. With the help of Internet, I can find it within seconds. Here you can see the datasheet and pin out of the IC. Look below please.

The PCB is single layer only, so very easy to trace! Perhaps because I’ve played with so many dual or even more layers. So now I feel very simple with single layer ;)

I also find useful thing from the datasheet: the stereo application guide. After checking the PCB and trace the layout, I think this speaker uses standard schematic and component value from the datasheet. Ohh… life is so simple :)

Let’s analyze the schematic (I assume that you have compared between the datasheet and the original layout used on this speaker to confirm – if you haven’t, please do it now, this will simplify your life – trust me!).

From the schematic above and after tracing the real layout on PCB, we can analyze this system.

  • Input are at pin 7 and 18
  • Output are at pin 2 and 15
  • Supply/Vcc at pin 16
  • Feedback are at pin 6 and 11
  • SVR is at pin 8
  • Bootstrap are at pin 3 and 14
  • The rest are Ground

What a simple amplifier? Welcome to the world of Integrated Circuit. Everything on single package.

So, I decide some important key components:

  • C6/C7 (470uF) as output coupling
  • Unnamed (100uF, from pin 16) as main power supply smoothing filter
  • C10/C11 (100uF) as feedback capacitors
  • C8 (100uF) as ripple rejection
  • C1/C2 (0.22uF) as input coupling

You may ask why above components are important? Actually, the first two most important are C6/C7 (output coupling capacitors) and C1/C2 (input coupling capacitors). Then, power supply is a must to get cleaner sound. So we change the 100uF from pin 16 also and C8 as ripple rejection capacitor. Finally, feedback capacitors also play important role, because most likely, the signal will pass this section also. So we change the C10 and C11.

For newbie, you can try to change C6/C7 first. Then C1/C2. Then go with 100uF capacitor at pin 16. After that, you can change C8, then C10/C11. By doing this step one by one, you can learn “which” capacitor makes different and “how” is their contribution in the overall sonic performance.

I dig my shelves to check necessary components. Not many values used, some are 100uF, 470uF, and 1.2uF. I think I have enough stock here (various brand). No need to spend money to buy or order.

Removing all the capacitors is easy. I love simplicity of single layer board.

Here is my mods list:

  • C6/C7 (470uF) changed to Nippon Chemicon KME (470uF/50V): I don’t have much option for this section. Nippon Chemicon is not my favorite, but this one is better than the original capacitor.
  • Unnamed (100uF, from pin 16) changed to Sanyo (1000uF/50V): I prefer higher capacitance to provide adequate supply and filtering to the main IC. So I upgrade to 1000uF. I think you try to use 1500-2000uF if possible.
  • C10/C11 (100uF) as feedback capacitors changed to Rubycon ZL (100uF/50V): Low impedance charateristics of this ZL is favorable as Black Gate replacement. The combination with Elna Cerafine as input coupling should produce balance result.
  • C8 (100uF) as ripple rejection changed to Elna Cerafine non-polar (100uF/25V): Ripple rejection needs good capacitor, so Elna Cerafine or Black Gate are both the best. You can opt to Nichicon Gold for cheaper solution.
  • C1/C2 (0.22uF) as input coupling changed to Elna Cerafine non-polar (1.2uF/50V): Nippon Chemicon at output coupling, Rubycon ZL in feedback, so Elna Cerafine should be at input stage. Elna Cerafine tends to have good/thick vocal – less detail, Rubycon ZL tends to have mid-hi tonal balance – more detail, while Nippon Chemicon tends to have more mid-low tonal balance. The combination between those three should produce adequate balance in this mod.

So, here is the final mods. Not to pretty, ugh? Big capacitor always have problem with small PCB layout. So it’s a matter of how smart you can put the component on the right place (without looked ugly).

Just another shoot. I always use “pin-sleeve” to protect the pins from short-circuit possibilities. And it will looked better on the photo also ;)

This mod also need to “cut” the inside plastic cover. I use my soldering iron to “cut” the plastic. Otherwise, those big capacitors won’t fit inside the chassis. I also cut the LED. LED tends to produce distortion/noise in the supply line and I don’t like the shiny blue light in my dark room.

Here is the final rig after mod. My Asus laptop, connected to my Asus Xonar U1 mod and Simbadda modded speaker. It’s more than enough to fill my daily life.

The result? I’ve owned this Simbadda for over 1 year and it never sounds this good (after mod). The details are definitely better, the staging is wider but more focused, the vocal is thick, warm, and sweet, the high are dynamic, tonality rich, extend, but not bright at all. The low doesn’t improve much – well what do you expect from a small speaker, eh? Overall, with almost “0″ cost (from old components on my shelves) or maybe around $10 cost if you buy the parts – this is a very recommended mods (I can say, this improvement is over twice from the standard version – perhaps around three times better) and also a very good example to learn before you advance into higher level of this audio mods world.

Added May 11th, 2009:
I remove the amplifier from the right chassis and put it on external box. Before, I listen the low frequency is not “equal’ between left and right speaker. This is normal because the right speaker box volume is smaller (some occupied with amplifier), while the left speaker has larger box volume (without any additional parts inside). So I remove the amplifier out of the right box. Now the bass is even more equal. No sign of “not enough volume” as I’ve listened before. Until now, I still just can’t believe how this cheap sound speaker could perform so much better with this mod. Diana Krall’s Love Letters sounds so beautiful, sweet lazy vocal, with superb brass instruments – off course – considering its price, this is excellent!



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Posted in DIY Audio | Comments (21)

21 Responses to “Basic Amplifier Mods for Dummies”

  1. DIY Audio Projects Says:
    May 11th, 2009 at 00:11

    Great work. You can also add a film cap in parallel with the 470uF as I have found that often brings an improvement as well.



  2. Jimmy Auw Says:
    May 11th, 2009 at 09:13

    I would like to do so, but no space…

    Thanks.



  3. pdm Says:
    May 14th, 2009 at 23:57

    Pak Jimmy itu di kiri kanan ada kertas apa yah hitam2? Fungsinya supaya apa? TQ.



  4. Jimmy Auw Says:
    May 15th, 2009 at 09:15

    Halo Pak,
    Fungsinya untuk membatasi “staging” aja… karena meja saya posisinya tidak simetris (ada lemari di sebelah kiri).

    Thanks.



  5. pdm Says:
    May 15th, 2009 at 22:18

    Tq Pak Jimmy, lalu itu terbuat dari apa yah? Dan bagaimana cara mengukurnya? Mohon maaf bila pertanyaan-nya dummy…



  6. Jimmy Auw Says:
    May 15th, 2009 at 22:27

    Itu busa semacam stereofoam sih pak. Biasa dipakai buat bantalan dalam kardus untuk barang elektronik. Tidak perlu diukur, sekedar ditaruh saja.

    Thanks.



  7. Noobs Says:
    May 27th, 2009 at 01:29

    pak, kalo mau ganti caps gitu.
    dari ukuran2nya ada patokannya??
    misal volt aslinya 16, diganti yang 50 ato 100 apa bisa??
    pgn juga utik2 dikit di soundcard, philips aurilium, apa aja yang mesti di ganti? pake apa kira2 ya. soalnya kadang kerasa terlalu tajem.

    thanks..



  8. Jimmy Auw Says:
    May 27th, 2009 at 08:57

    Halo,
    Kalo untuk voltase, pake yang sama atau lebih besar dari aslinya.

    Kalo untuk uF, sebaiknya cari yang sama, kecuali kamu tau/yakin fungsinya.

    Aurilium itu yang external? Ganti PSU dulu deh bikin dedicated dengan PSU external. Itu yang paling ngaruh.

    Thanks.



  9. Paskal Says:
    July 2nd, 2009 at 14:38

    Pak, jd caps yg harus diganti nilainya ke yg lebih besar itu, caps yg connect +VB ?? thx



  10. Jimmy Auw Says:
    July 2nd, 2009 at 20:51

    Boleh, tidak masalah.
    Thanks.



  11. Charles Says:
    July 23rd, 2009 at 01:12

    Mr. Auw, First off Thankyou. Just getting my feel wet in electronics. Im greatfull for stumbling opon your mod/site, just wanted
    to know if you ever could recomend any tips, technics, reffrenc, etc. one needs to have to be proficent in the world i would greatly apreciate it. I have limited knowladge in microscopy be a field tech. for a local microscope dealer but would offer any help in return.

    Once again thankyou for the leson and thankyou for ur time. Best regaurds Charles



  12. Jimmy Auw Says:
    July 23rd, 2009 at 20:45

    Hi,
    Thanks for your interest. So far the best source is to learn from the Internet and start practicing to improve yourself.

    Thanks.



  13. Richard Says:
    July 30th, 2009 at 10:00

    Hi Jimmy,

    Chanced upon your blog and see that you are an extreme DIYer with much technical expertise. Would hope that you can review the circuitry of my 12 year-old vintage class A car amplifier on the various capacitors used for potential upgrade (and also extend its useful life).

    Could you contact me via the provided email.

    Thanks,

    Richard
    Singapore



  14. Jimmy Auw Says:
    July 30th, 2009 at 10:30

    Hi Richard,
    Thanks for your interest, but I’m not that good. Anyway, you still can contact me at me@jimmyauw.com

    Thanks.



  15. wednes yuda Says:
    September 2nd, 2009 at 14:22

    hi Jimmy,
    ever consider to build new case for this speaker ? MDF speaker box probably will make better sound.
    what do you think ?



  16. Jimmy Auw Says:
    September 2nd, 2009 at 17:16

    Hi,
    This is only for fun. I don’t have any idea (at least for now), to build special enclosure.
    Thanks.



  17. Spacehead Says:
    December 17th, 2009 at 05:42

    Hi! I found that same TEA2025B from Creative SBS15 active speakers. I modded that amplifier circuit with KME and Rubycon caps, 1000 uF and 1500 uF. I am driving my Sennheiser HD 201 headphones with it. It sounds like the bass would be more stronger now. Next project is Cmoy headphone amp.
    pics: http://i46.tinypic.com/b65vzp.jpg
    http://i45.tinypic.com/2sbx5vm.jpg

    http://i49.tinypic.com/4uuk9x.jpg
    here the C7 and the same on the other side is replaced with Rubycon 1500 uF
    I am not sure if they are balanced now.



  18. Rob Says:
    January 2nd, 2011 at 20:28

    Can you please show an image of the underneith of the PCB just so we can see the tracks etc.
    thanks



  19. Auw Jimmy Says:
    January 11th, 2011 at 21:47

    Hi Rob,
    Sorry this stuff has been gone for long time on my attic.

    Thanks.



  20. Rusty Says:
    March 13th, 2011 at 01:37

    Aux Jimmy,

    I love your work….It inspires me greatly!!….

    I was wondering if I could have your insight on a project I want to do.

    I have a pair of AudioSource 5.3A monoblock amps that I would like to upgrade the coupling capacitors on. I have e-mailed the manufacturer requesting a schematic but received no answer. I have read elsewhere on the internet that they don’t release schmatics of their products.

    Could you give me some tips on how to determine which of the capacitors are the coupling caps?….Also, any recomendations on possible replacements would be greatly appreciated…

    Thanks in advance….-Rusty



  21. Auw Jimmy Says:
    March 13th, 2011 at 11:32

    Hi Rusty,
    If you dont have the schematic, you must trace yourself inside the circuit. Then, check the rating of the original capacitor. Finally, decide what to upgrade and upgrade to what.

    Good luck on your journey!

    Thanks.



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